Getting a fan
Finally decided that it would be OK to put the circulation fan in the door of the Freezer compartment. As you will notice this required slicing a chunk off the shelf that is part of the door to allow the louvres to rotate open. I also removed the refrigeration pipes now that I know that venting the coolant in this system will not harm the environment. Makes it easier to route the power and digital cabling.
Below you can see the inside of the freezer compartment showing the rear of the circulation fan and the air intake / cable duct opening at the back of the compartment. I’ve also decided to go ahead with housing all of the electronics including the air heater inside the freezer compartment so if this proves too small for whatever reason then another hole can easily be made now that the refrigeration system has been removed.
Extra Arduino bit
Above is a pic of several Grove connectors. As I have decided to create my own expansion board using veroboard I will need to bend the outer two pins in order to solder the Grove connectors to the board as the pin pitch of the connectors is not standard.
In the picture below you can see the extra nine connectors mounted on the veroboard.
The above picture shows the board with the jumper wires and Arduino connections.
Below is a close-up of through pins attached to a piece of veroboard used to connect to the Arduino.
Heat and Sight
I decided to go for this 1200W, two setting, £5.00 hair dryer, from UK WalMart / Asda, to act as the air heater for the Gro-Bot it comes with a thermal cut-out so it should cut out before melting. It’s going to be housed in the freezer compartment of the fridge so will not be affected by the humidity levels in the grow chamber.
Below you can just see the thermal cut-outs in this close-up of the air intake of the dryer as well as the heater coils.
In the image below you can see the original cover for the fridge light and temperature control. The bit sticking out on the right is a switch for the light which is actuated when the door is opened and shut thus switching the light on and off.This will be connected as the door open/shut sensor.
As you also see I have mounted a USB camera in the space which used to house the temperature control switch. It is a Playstation 3 USB camera costing £2.00 at the local games exchange shop. I have connected this to the version 2 software and it functions OK some of the parameters will need tweeking to get the best image though.