AA is air atomised, the nozzles use compressed air to create the mist. The off time will be system specific as there are a lot of variables. For young plants and initial testing its best to err on the wetter side to ensure sufficient root growth. The more roots a plant has, the more mist it can intercept. An alternative is to use a medium like rockwool in the netpot to provide the plant with a secondary moisture supply until it can generate sufficient rootmass outside the pot. It allows you to run lower mist levels from the outset without any risk of the plant falling over…just hand water the medium to keep it moist. I built a precision drip system for the task, a big syringe full of nutes will also do the job
Thanks for the info, I will definitely be using pete moss for the germination and grow process on my next grow. Thanks for explaining the logic behind the off time. I am hoping to program an algorithm that takes into account a variety of factors; time of day, type of plant, etc. to take the plant from seed to yield, but that is far down the road.
Another thing I am wondering if my water temperature is too high. My water temperature is hovering around 72-78 while the nutrient chamber is a little higher ( i think becuase its white and not insulated) at 75-80. I am still brainstorming a control system to cool the water when needed, but i wanted to see how it did with room temp water. I’d love to hear what others are doing for this.
I forgot to post the link to my data sheet before. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1KPuT-iOTEdDSc15g19V2P2styswsAR7SzqoUa_yP0Io/edit?usp=sharing
this should allow anyone to view, but hopefully not edit. I hope I don’t regret that.
I would try to keep the chamber temperature around 68F-72F if possible, 80F is way too warm
The cheapest solution to root temperature control is to find a clean used chest freezer (top opening) and fit it with an stc-1000 thermostat. You will struggle to build an equivalently sized and insulated chamber for the same price and it wont have active rootzone cooling. The only issue is having space for it and sufficient headroom above it to accomodate the final plant height plus the light. I did some tests during a heatwave with my 170Lchest freezer root chamber equipped with an stc-1000 The stc was set to cool at 21C (69.8F) with the differential set to 0.3C so the compressor ran when the chamber temperature rose to 21.3C (70.34F) and stopped when it dropped to 21C.
According to my notes,the room temperature (outdoor brick shed) on the day of the test was 35.2C (95.3F). The compressor ran for 6 minutes cooling the chamber from 21.3C to 21C. The thermal flywheel effect continued cooling the chamber for a further 15 minutes where the chamber temperature stabilised at 19.3C (66.74F). It then took another 82 minutes for the chamber to heat back up to 21.3C. Total cycle time: 103 minutes, worst case power consumption 235w over a 24hr period assuming a room temperature of 95F day and night
Here`s a pic, not in use now as all my outdoor setups have been shutdown for the winter, the indoor setups will keep me busy til spring
hopefully some of the above is helpful.
I don’t quite understand your chest freezer idea. Where are you putting the net pots? You are drilling holes in the top of the freezer; is that it? Where are the atomizing nozzles getting in? And how are you hooking it up to a thermostat? Thanks.
The thermometer he recommends looks like a programable one that . It looks pretty affordable and wires into the system like a pair of relays. One that trips when the lower limit and reached, to turn on a heater. The other when the upper limit trips, for a cooler.
To me, it reads (and looks) like he is recommending to put as much of the system as possible in the freezer. He may have even taken a hole saw to the top of the one pictured.
I thought about which is more economical; buying a freeze and adapting it to my needs, or building and insulated box and try and cool it we TE coolers. Ill have to look further into it.
Thanks for sharing those photos. I had an internet error that put a lot of strain on the plants and they never recovered, so i am now looking to implement some of these improvements.
Thanks. So to be clear, the idea basically is to take a saw to the top of the freezer and make holes for the net pots and then saw in holes in the side to make an inlet for the nozzles? And then also add in some wiring (not sure how this is done) for a digital thermometer?
Would a stand-up fridge theoretically be better (if you could get one as cheaply)? Why couldn’t one just drop a root chamber in there, and stick the lights inside at the top if you can get the outlet through the back somehow . You’d have a lot more headroom, cooling would be better since you haven’t destroyed the seal of your unit, and your cabinet would be self-enclosed, rather than needing an additional enclosure (for purposes of pests, odors, noise, etc.) I guess the disadvantage is you would probably have a lot less width.
Chest freezers are usually better insulated than fridges because of the lower temperature. When you open a upright fridge or freezer door all the cold air falls out onto the floor The netpots dont compromise the insulation by much and if you use foam collars hardly at all.
The refrigerant lines are distributed in the walls of a chest freezer, typically there
s none in the floor or lid. Some upright freezers have the refrigerant lines built into the shelves, fridges typically just have a basic cold plate at the back near the top. The mist will get everywhere..including on the inside of the door..waiting for you to open it ;) A chest freezer is essentially just an empty box, fridges have lights, internal thermostat controls and sometimes fans and circuit boards. Remember that mist and mains electricity dont mix. The freezer in the pic is quite an old model, it doesnt have a internal step where the compressor.sits underneath, it didnt even have a drain until i put one in. I bought my wife a shiney new chest freezer, win win ;) As far as the wiring goes, just fit a trailing socket to the cooling relay terminals on the stc-1000 and plug the freezer into the socket. Theres no need to modify the freezers internal wiring at all, just make sure the internal stat is not switched off,